Clermont l’Hérault

Leaving Montpellier behind has been far from traumatic. In fact, I don't think I've given that over burdened, grimy city a second thought - other than 'glad we're not there any more'. I really didn't expect to much prefer une vie à la campagne, but that's how it's turned out since we started living in Clermont l’Hérault in June. 

I was here in Clermont last year during a wintery February and a spring like March; the town presents itself quite differently in the full bloom of summer.  There are abundant flowers everywhere, including glorious displays of Laurier Rose, also known as Oleander and dubbed a 'toxic weed' in Australia therefore routinely chopped down.  This opinon is clearly not shared in France, where Oleander is actively cultivated and appreciated, and we now share that appreciation.  This time of year flags, bunting and floral hanging baskets adorn most streets and squares whilst pavement cafés multiply and flourish everywhere.

The bright blue, cloudless skies and long days of sunshine have encouraged wide exploration of the Hérault area and we have ventured further afield than previously, discovering new and memorable places.  

Pepper swims in the Lac du Salagou; Alex paddles his pirogue on the river at Aspiran; we have danced at the Fête in Cabrières; enthusisatically tasted the new season's rosé wine at Fontès (very good, bought a case); we've listened to the free Bach recitals performed every Wednesday at St. Paul's with musicians from all over the world playing the grand organ; viewed the abstract art and photography exhibitions at the Ancienne Ėglise; drunk pichets of wine and enjoyed the Mélo Divin live music festival at Allées Salengro which also hosts open air cinema sessions and jazz concerts.

Bastille Day was a huge indulgence of non stop almost free wine and music, with spectators - including toddlers  - weilding fireworks whilst watching the official firework display. The visible lack of an overbearing police presence, security guards, barriers, crowd control, hooligans, ambulances waiting for business etc. etc. was truly liberating, with everyone expected to regulate their own behaviour - if you maim yourself with a firework there's no chance of a law suit or an ambulance so this has a beneficial knock-on effect!   

We've sampled cheese at the night market at Octon, lit camp fires and roasted marshmallows (this particularly appealed to Alex as the possiblity of just lighting your own camp fire pretty much isn't an option in Oz), listened to salsa amidst the natural wonders of the Cirque du Mourèze and marvelled at the limestone gorges of Saint Guilhém le Desert. We've visited Roujan, Neffiès, Muviel-les-Béziers, Plaissan, Lodève, Cuxac d'Aude, Nébian, Saint Jean de la Blaquière - all places we could easily consider living.  We honestly and truly drive around with a boules set in the boot of the Fiat and whip them out for a wine fuelled challenge wherever a boulodrome presents itself. 

We've only been here four weeks!  Last Thursday I just couldn't summon up the energy for a wine tasting plus musical hommage to Dalida followed by dancing until 2am at Adissan and turned in early.  Who would have thought la vie à la campagne offered so much?!  We selected Montpellier for what it might have to offer and found what we were looking for forty minutes from its bright lights.  So much so that we've talked seriously to a couple of real estate agents....